Sunday, May 13, 2012

The lower course of the Amu Darya

It is believed that the Amu Darya's lower course across the Kara-Kum Desert has gone through several major shifts in the past few thousand years for much of the time, the most recent period being in the 13th century to the late 16th century, the Amu Darya emptied into both the Aral and the Caspian Seas. Sometimes, the flow through the two branches was more or less equal, but often in this period, most of the Amu Darya's flow split to the west and flowed into the Caspian.

In ancient times the river was dammed by at least two large works: one lies near Amuy, at the beginning of the lower course, today called Carjuy, and the other was at Gurganj where the river bifurcated into two beds. Al-Muqaddasi one of the most notable geographers and scholars of his time,originally from Al-Quds (Jerusalem) around  985 AD describes the Gurganj dam as an amazing work of engineering, built all of wood and resembling sea-works in wood and wickerwork.

Just above this point, the river's course splits: a small branch runs north to the Aral Sea, but another larger branch runs west, past the town of Gurganj, into a deep depression called the Sarykamysh, about 155 miles SW of the Aral Sea. This Sarykamysh depression lies about 100 metres deeper than the river's bed at Gurganj. From the Sarykamysh, a dried-up riverbed called the Uzboi runs through the Balkhan hills all the way to the Caspian Sea.

The Aral Sea's level is itself only about 20 metres deeper than river level at Gurganj. Everything depends on the river's level. In times when the larger branch of the Oxus emptied into the Sarykamysh then in effect it became the true basin of the Amu daya not the Aral Sea.

At the Sarkayamysh the larger part of the river's waters end, like those of other desert lakes: evaporating, without exit. However in times past when little irrigation-water was used upriver, the filled basin of the Sarykamysh overflowed and discharged through the Uzboy into the Caspian.

History of the river's several courses:

Present-day back to about 1575 AD: both Jaxartes and Oxus rivers (the Syr Darya and Amu Darya) run to the Aral Sea, as they do today. Around 1575, the Amu darya's course changed.

Evidence: Abulghazi Khan, born 1603 and ruled 1642-63, wrote that the course of the rivers changed thirty years before his birth. Anthony Jenkinson, British trader and diplomat, the envoy of Queen Elizabeth, and the agent of a company founded in England for trading with Moskovia wrote in 1558-59 describing how the Oxus ran in the Uzboi channel but no longer reached the Caspian Sea, and made the prediction that the demands for irrigation would soon lead to a complete desolation of the region.

From 1575 to 1221 AD (the date of the Mongol invasion) the Amu Darya discharged into both the Caspian and the Aral Seas--usually the main branch ran to the Caspian, but during at least one period, a side branch also ran to the Aral. Thus the seas were linked. There are perhaps four courses which this river seems to have followed at various periods. At this time, the river split just above the town of Gurganj; the main branch ran south of the town (coursing westward) filled the Sarykamysh (about 150 miles SW of the Aral Sea) ran through the Uzboi bed SE to a gap in the Balkhan hills (over 100 miles SE of Krasnowodsk) and discharged into the Caspian Sea opposite the group of islands called Oghurtcha or Aghyrtcha.

Evidence: 1) In 1392, Zahir al-din al-Mar'ashi a native of Mazandaran, describes in detail every waterway from Mazandaran to Khwarizm. 2) Shihab al-din 'Umar al-'Umari (d. about 1348) remarks on the authority of witnesses from Khwarizm "On Khwarizm borders ... a country ... Mangyshlaq, a steppe ... separated from the Djaihun (Oxus) by the Ak-Balkan hills north of Khurasan." 3) In the reign of Oldjaitu (1304-16) Hamdallah al-Mustaufi speaks of the caravan route from Gurgan by way of Dahistan (the modern-day Mashhah i Misriyan) to Gurganj, which had just been surveyed and was 110 fars (380 miles) in length between Dahistan and Gurganj--and says on the Uzboi there was a great waterfall, called in Turkish gurledi, roaring; and a side branch of the Amu Daya fell into the Aral Sea--and tells how the discharge of water of the Amu Daya into the Caspian had raised the sea's level so that the peninsula of Abaskun (Pliny's Socanda) was submerged. 4) The historians Marino Sanudo (1325) and al-Bakuwi (beginning of the fifteenth century) confirm this description.

The river changed its course in 1221 because the armies of Genghis Khan destroyed the great dam at Gurganj : record of ibn al-Athir, xii, 257. From the tenth century to 1221, the Amu Darya seems not to have flowed to the Caspian. However the records are vague and contradictory.

Evidence: the earliest is from ibn Khurdadhbih, but is vague because of variants in texts; Ibn al-Raqih at the beginning of the tenth century, tells a legendary and thus unverified story; ibn Rustah (writing between 903 and 913 AD) carefully describes the mouth of the river's main branch, showing that it discharged into the Sarykamysh. Istakhri (about 960 AD) says the river flows into the Aral Sea. Al-Ya'qubi (about 890) however says it falls into the Caspian.

Muqaddasi--the author of the description of the Gurganj dam--circa 985 AD, relates a legend according to which the Uzboi as the Oxus' main branch had once, long ago, carried water (ergo, it did not do so in Muqaddasi's day) and reached the town of Balkhan in Khurasan; however once the inhabitants of Kath (the pre- and early-Muhammedan capital, 30 miles east of Khiva) had diverted the whole course of the river to their easternmost branch for 24 hours, the river did not turn back to the Uzboi channel and the whole Balkhan region was laid waste by lack of irrigation.

According to Byzantine historians, this region then called Balaam was settled before the Muslim conquest as ot already had irrigation then, and the Amu Darya flowed into the Caspian. (It is not possible to settle an entire region without a major river to provide water.)

In high antiquity, Strabo (C.510) and Polybius (x,48) both mention a waterfall of the Amu Darya; this is probably the waterfall of the Uzboy mentioned by Hamdallah.

Evidence: Seleucus of Persia planned to connect the Caspian by a canal with the Black Sea, if a report of the exploration of the Caspian should be favorable. This took place not later than 282 B.C. Xenocles, the gazophylax of the archives of Babylon, had made accessible for study to Patrocles (the agent sent to study the issue) the original documents with observations by Alexander the Great's general staff concerning the problem. The purpose of the project was to develop trade. Strabo xi (c.509 and 518) quotes Aristobulus speaking of the transport of Indian merchandise on the "well navigable Oxus" (in the present day, the river is not navigable; the water-level fluctuates too much) to the Caspian and across the sea and thence through the Caucasus to the Euxinus or Black Sea . . . This plan of Seleucus' implies that the Oxus was known to discharge into the Caspian, else the whole project would fall to the ground. Hence, in the early third century BC the Amu Daya flowed into the Caspian.

Source: Ernst Herzfeld, Zoroaster and His World, vol II, 1947. Ernst Herzfeld, Professor of Oriental Archaeology at the University of Berlin.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Karakalpakstan to host Asrlar Sadosi Festival May 5-6 2012


The Republic of Karakalpakstan, located in the northwest of Uzbekistan, has drawn an increasing interest in recent years from art specialists, archeologists, researchers and travelers. The region is famed for its unique culture, rich historical legacy, rare natural landscapes, and ancient and medieval monuments as the area is home to numerous archeological sites.

The bulk of the events to be held as part of the Festival will take place at Tuproq Qala Fortress Town (built around 1st-2nd centuries A.D. , the capital of Ancient Khorezm). The town is located in Ellikqala District, where archeological excavations were launched in 1940. The district’s name means fifty fortresses (ellik – fifty, qala - fortress). Archeological excavations suggest that the fortress served as a center of religious rituals and structures built during the Zoroastrianism epoch (ED: The Zorastrian Prophet Zoraster is believed to have been born in the Republic). Tuproq Qala was the central palace of the Khorezmshahs and is one of the oldest buildings in Central Asia. It has been declared and protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Festival attendees will also have an opportunity to visit the Savitsky Museum in the capital Nukus, which is sometimes called “the Louvre in a Desert” by virtue of its rich collection. Presently, the Museum boasts over 90,000 exhibits that represent primarily Russian and Turkistan avant garde and post-avant garde art. Of special note are Karakalpak applied art collections as well as unique archeological exhibits. According to the estimates of specialists and the art media, the Savitsky collection is the one of best collection of artworks in Asia and houses the world's second largest collection of Russian avant garde art.

The Festival program will include contests for folkloric groups, national costumes and dance, traditional games such as uloq-kukari (an amazing display of horsemanship), tournaments of Kurash (Traditional wrestling), cock and ram fights, tightrope walking and a culinary competition (featuring chefs from various parts of the country). Another highlight of the Festival is the Applied Art Fair which will run throughout the festival featuring ceramics, embroidery, miniature artworks, weaving and woodcarving.

The scientific component of the Festival will be of particular interest presenting workshops focusing on Karakalpakstans' archeological finds, avant garde art and its unique culture and traditions and human interaction with the environment.

The Festival is annually attended by up to 50,000 people, including members of international organizations and the diplomatic corps, culture and art professionals, specialists, researchers, youth groups and international guests.

The fifth Asrlar Sadosi Festival will help to shed light on the little known facets of ancient and modern Uzbekistan, while putting on the festival map this unique region. Previous festivals have been held in Shakhrisabz, Tashkent Region, Khiva and Bukhara. This time the Festival is expected to present a combination of incredible landscapes, history and culture of Karakalpakstan.


Source: Edited version of http://www.fondforum.uz/en/news/karakalpakstan-to-host-asrlar-sadosi-festival-2012/

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Karakalpakstan


Flag of Karakalpakstan

Coat of Arms of Karakalpakstan

The northwestern third of Uzbekistan constitutes the autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan. Karakalpakstan (Kara-Kalpakstan) is known as Qaraqalpaqstan in Karakalpak, Qoraqalpoghistan in Uzbek and Karakalpakiya in Russian. It is an autonomous republic within Uzbekistan, situated southeast and southwest of the Aral Sea and extends across roughly 164,900 square kilometers.

It is bordered on the east by the rest of Uzbekistan and to the north and east by Kazakhstan, and to the south by Turkmenistan. The Aral Sea extends from Kazakhstan into the northeastern corner of the republic. On the east Karakalpakstan occupies the western half of the Kyzylkum Desert, a vast plain covered with shifting sands. The central part consists of the valley and delta of the Amu Darya (river), a low-lying area intersected by watercourses and canals. The west the republic includes the southeastern part of the Ustyurt Plateau, a slightly undulating area characterized by flat summits rising to some 958 feet (292 m) above sea level. The climate is marked by cool winters and hot summers. Average rainfall is only 75 to 100 mm (3-4 inches).

Karakalpaks are Turkic-speaking people who live mostly within the Autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan. Politically the Republic is part of Uzbekistan, and occupies the arid and sparsely inhabited northwest region of the country. Karakalpakstan’s total population is around 1.5 million, of which just over a third identify themselves as ethnically Karakalpak. Uzbeks and Kazakhs comprise most of the remaining 60% of the population along with small numbers of Turkmens and Russians.  Like many other Turkic peoples, Karkalpaks are of obscure origin. However what is known is that contemporary Karakalpaks are the descendants of Turkic tribes—Kytai, Kongyrat, Kipchak, Keneges, Mangyt, Muyten—that formed a confederacy at the end of the 15th century and settled along the lower part of the Syr Darya River, in what is now Kazakhstan. Later they migrated south toward the Aral Sea, following the delta of the Amu Darya to reach their current territory.The first historical reference to them dates from the end of the 16th century. During the 18th century they settled in the Amu Darya region, came partly under Russian rule in 1873, and by 1920 were totally incorporated into the Soviet Union.

Established as an autonomous oblast (province) of the Kazakh A.S.S.R. in 1925, Karakalpakstan came under the administration of the Russian S.F.S.R. in 1930 and two years later was constituted as an autonomous republic. In 1936, while retaining its status, it was made a part of the Uzbek S.S.R. and became part of Uzbekistan with that country’s independence in 1991.


About one-half of the population is urban. Nukus, the capital, Xojeli, Beruniy, Takhiatosh, Chimbay, Turtkul, and Altykyl are the chief settlements. Total Pop. (2007 est.) 1,678,191.

Photo: Nukus City





Map of Karakalpakstan : District / District capital
1 Amudarya District Man'g'it
2 Beruniy District Beruniy
3 Shimbay District Shimbay
4 Ellikqala District Bostan
5 Kegeyli District Kegeyli
6 Moynaq District Moynaq
7 No'kis District Aqman'g'it
8 Qonliko‘l District Qanliko‘l
9 Qon'irat District Qon'irat
10 Qarao'zek District Qarao'zek
11 Shomanay District Shomanay
12 Taxtako‘pir District Taxtako‘pir
13 To'rtko‘l District To‘rtko‘l
14 Xojeli District Xojeli
Republican Capital : Nukus

Districts in Uzbek, Karakalpak and Russian and Capital in Russian

1 Amudaryo A’muda’rya Амударьинский (Мангит)
2 Beruniy Beruniy Берунийский (Беруни)
3 Chimboy Shimbay Чимбайский (Чимбай)
4 Elliqala Ellikqala лликкалинский (Бустан)
5 Kegeyli Kegeyli Кегейлийский (Кегейли)
6 Mo’ynoq Moynaq Муйнакский (Муйнак)
7 Nukus No’kis Нукусский (Акмангит)
8 Qanliko’l Qanliko’l Канлыкульский (Канлыкуль)
9 Qo’ng’irot Qon’irat Кунградский (Кунград)
10 Qorao’zak Qarao’zek Караузякский (Караузяк)
11 Shumanay Shomanay Шуманайский (Шуманай)
12 Taxtako’pir Taxtako’pir Тахтакупырский (Тахтакупыр)
13 To’rtko’l To’rtko’l Турткульский (Турткуль)
14 Xo’jayli Xojeli Ходжейлийский (Ходжейли)
capital Nukus No’kis г. Нукус

The economy is predominantly agricultural. The industrial sector, while limited, includes light manufacturing, refineries that process oil from nearby petroleum fields, several building-materials plants that utilize the abundant limestone, gypsum, asbestos, marble, and quartzite of the area, and a power station in Takhiatosh. Cotton is cultivated along the Amu Darya and in its delta and is processed in mills located in Chimbay, Kungrad, Beruni, Takhtakupyr, Xojeli, and Mangit.

A well-developed system of irrigation canals supplies water from the Amu Darya to the crops. Besides cotton, crops include alfalfa, rice, and corn (maize) are grown in the delta. Cattle and Karakul sheep are raised in the Kyzylkum Desert.

Agricultural farmlands particularly those lands in the lower Amu Darya and near the Aral Sea have become salinized owing to the effects of over-irrigation. The shrinkage of the Aral Sea has also eliminated most of the republic’s fisheries and resulted in a much harsher climate and a shorter growing season.

Transport facilities in the republic include a railway from Kungrad to Turkmenabat in Turkmenistan, motor roads that link several cities of the republic, and air connections with Moscow, Tashkent and other cities.

Source: Encyclopædia Britannica
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Monday, January 9, 2012

Ustyurt Plateau - Saiga


The unique grassland steppe of the Ustyurt Plateau, a temperate desert lying between the Caspian and the Aral seas cover a vast area, about 200,000 square kilometers shared between Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan.

The landscape is a mosaic of eroded hills, shallow basins, and extensive escarpments, with no permanent streams or open fresh-water sources.

With a high degree of endemism -- species that can only be found locally -- the plateau is home to vegetation types well-adapted to a harsh environment, including gypsum- and salt-tolerant plants.

Still found are ungulates like the goitered gazelle (Gazella subgutturosa subgutturosa) and the Ustyurt urial (Ovis vigneri arcal), as well as mammal predators such as the marbled polecat (Vormela peregusna).

The plateau's most famous resident is undoubtedly the saiga antelope (Saiga tatarica tatarica). With its bulbous, tubular nose and bulging eyes, the nomadic antelope is certainly one of the world's strangest-looking mammals. It's also on a list of critically endangered species by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature.

A range of human-related impacts are denuding and fragmenting the landscape and its habitats, affecting species' diversity, number, and migration. Meanwhile, social and economic difficulties have caused a sharp decline in funding for conservation efforts in a landscape susceptible to degradation and desertification.

In 1991, Uzbek authorities designated a protected area of 1,000,000 ha in Ustyurt to safeguard saiga lambing grounds. Likewise in Kazakhstan, the Ustyurt Nature Reserve protects 223,000 hectares of the plateau and in Turkmenistan's the 282,000-hectare Kaplankyr Nature Reserve covers the Ustyurt Plateau's southern spur.

The saiga population however has shrunk from more than 1 million in the 1990s to around 40,000 today. In particular the Ustyurt population is vulnerable, with less than 10,000 on the plateau with the population still in sharp decline.

As of today this species of ancient steppe antelope is represented by 5 dissociated groupings of 5-15 thousand of animal units each: Mongolian (in Mongo-lia), Kalmyk (in the Russian Federation), Urals (Kazakhstan), Usturt (Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan) and Turgai-Betpakdala (Kazakhstan), which keep decreasing by 20-40% per year. If this population decline rate is continued, then taking into account the biological peculiarities of this species (a number of natural enemies, climate effect, and susceptibility to diseases) and high demand for the products made of their horns one may talk about the complete loss of this species within next 5-7 years.

This unsustainable increase in poaching for Saiga is occurring because demand for its meat and very sadly for its antlers (used in traditional Chinese medicine as an alternative to the rhinoceros horn). The use of the antlers is totally unfounded and is not based on traditional Chinese medicinal practise at all, but on a combination of lots of greed (particularly that of the smugglers & other middle men) and way way too much money in the hands of too many backward and superstition people living in China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and other parts of the far east who are buying at very high prices antlers & antler preparations which have historically have NEVER ever been used in any traditional Chinese medicinal preparations.

The saiga will face extinction unless very strong conservation measures in Central Asia and the Russian Federation are put in place and efforts by the Chinese/ Taiwan / Kong Kong governments ect. are steeped up considerably ie. making a real effort to stop the sale of the antlers and other by-products of the Saiga and prosecuting whomever is involved (as was done to save the panda in the PRC).

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Weather in Nukus



Metoprog - Excellent Site

Go to Metoprog http://www.meteoprog.uz/ru/weather/Nukus/

or see below on main page for insert Nukus Daily Metrological data in Russian.


Annual Monthly Average Temperature/Rainfall

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

The legend of Arash the great Bowman


The legend of Arash the great Bowman

The legend runs as follows: In a war between the Iranians and the Turanians over the "royal glory" (Khwarrah), the great Afrasiab (King of the Turan) had hounded the forces of the Iranian King Manuchehr, finally the two sides agreed to make peace.

Both reach an agreement that whatever land falls within the range of a bow-shot shall be returned to the Iranians, and the rest should then fall to Afraisab and the Turanians (Khwarezm).

An angel al-Biruni calls 'Esfandaramad' instructs Manuchehr to construct a special bow and arrow, and his best archer Arash is asked to be fire a specially prepared arrow at dawn, which reputedly traveled a great distance (see below) before finally landing and so marking the future border between the Iranians and the Turanians.

In al-Tabari, Arash is exalted by the people, is appointed commander of the archers and lives out his life in great honor. The distance the arrow travels varies: in one it is thousand leagues (farsakhs), in another forty days walk. In several, the arrow traveled from dawn to noon, in others from dawn until sunset. According to al-Biruni, it hit a nut tree between "Fargana" and "Tabaristan" in the furthest reaches of [Greater] Khorasan"

A few sources specify a particular date for the event. The Middle ages Mah i Frawardin notes the 6th day of the 1st month (i.e. Khordad of Frawardin); later sources associate the event with the name-day festivities of Tiregan (13th of Tir) - tir meaning "arrow."

The location from which Arash fired his arrow varies as well. In the Avesta it is 'Airyo khshaotha', a not-further identified location in the Middle Clime. Islamic-era sources typically place the location of the shot somewhere just south of the Caspian Sea, variously in Tabaristan (Tabari, Talebi, Maqdesi, ibn al-Atir, Marashi); a mountain-top in Ruyan (al-Biruni, Gardizi), Amul fortress (Mojmal), Mount Damavand (Balami) or Sari (Gorgani).

The place the arrow landed is variously identified as 'Mount Khvanvant' in the Avesta (likewise an unknown location); a river in Balkh (Tabari, al-Atir); east of Balkh (Talebi); Bactria/Tokharistan (Maqdesi, Gardizi); the banks of the Oxus River (Balami) or Merv (Mojmal).

Source(s):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arash

The Turan

In the Avesta the term Turanians was a collective name for the eternal enemies of Zoroastrism, who it associated with the Khwarezm ruler Afrasiab (ca. 305-? AD) called Franrasyan in the Avesta hymns.

The Turan is historically considered the territory that is located north and east of Amy-Darya, once populated by nomadic Turanians variously called Sakas, Masguts, Massagetae, Kushans, Parthians, Ephtalites and other names of the consecutively Scythian, Hunnic, and Türkic tribes.

The peoples of the Turan consisted of symbiotic combination of agricultural settlers of oases and river valleys, and nomadic and semi-nomadic population engaged in animal husbandry in the deserts and steepes.